This is the sixteenth video in a detailed series featuring important aspects of finishing, sanding, gluing and clamping a traditional solid wood door.
In this video Allan applies the 4th and 5th coats of Waterlox to his solid wood frame and panel door. He talks about foam backed sandpaper, Waterlox, and scratching the surface in between coats for a flawless finish.
Be sure to check out the other videos in the Solid Wood Door Series. The complete series starts with explaining how to build a stunning tung oil based finish using Waterlox Original. It also shows detailed instruction for how to prep the surface, how to glue and clamp mortise and tenon joints using PC7 and various clamps, how to make blow out repairs, and multiple sanding techniques and philosophy. As a bonus, you’ll see my very unique door holding system that spins effortlessly on a rotisserie style mechanism to ensure perfect finish application.
Want to know which tools and products that AskWoodman uses? Interested in learning more woodworking techniques? Read the articles that go with AskWoodman videos at
Allan Little is AskWoodman™
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Here’s how to adjust the primary chain on a Harley-Davidson Evolution Big Twin motorcycle. See my FXR at Inspecting and adjusting an Evolution Harley-Davidson Big Twin motorcycle engine primary chain is pretty simple, and you don’t need any fancy specialized tools to do it. You might as well change the primary oil while you’re in there as well. To adjust the primary chain, remove the shift lever if your bike has one that passes through the primary chain case, remove the left foot peg, remove the primary chain inspection cover, and then measure the deflection of the chain to make sure it is between 5/8″ and 7/8″ (16 to 22mm) at its tightest point. You’ll need to rotate the primary chain and check it a few times to find the tightest point. Harley-Davidson primary chains sometimes wear unevenly, so it is important that you check tension of the primary chain in different positions. To tighten the primary chain, loosen the nut on the motorcycle’s primary chain tensioner and move it upwards. then tighten the nut and measure the chain deflection again. Once you’ve adjusted it properly, replace the inspection cover. Harley-Davidson mechanics told me that putting some silicone on the o-ring on the plastic tube the gear shift rod passes through will stop the primary oil from leaking out near the shifter, so I recommend doing that when you put it back together. If you use silicone, make sure you allow enough time for it to dry before you take your Harley-Davidson Evolution Big Twin motorcycle for a ride.
It really can be easy to install vinyl tile with Glue. You really don’t need to be afraid of a floor that you glue down. We’ll show you why, and show you how it can be done.
0:19 – What to do when the flooring arrives
0:37 – Materials you will need
1:22 – Final installation prep
1:38 – Marking out the floor
2:13 – Demonstrating applying the adhesive
3:22 – Knowing when adhesive is ready
3:42 – Aligning tiles properly as you lay them down
4:43 – Squaring tiles to each other, checking edges
5:13 – The pattern for laying tiles in a room
6:01 – First tiles set up the rest of the room
6:11 – Keeping tiles snug with 2 other tiles
6:30 – Cutting tiles for ends of rows and laying them properly
7:33 – Rolling out at the end
For more information on these types of flooring, these links will take you directly to our pages on:
Like Us on Facebook! How to caulk. How to apply caulk. Caulking., An Uncle Knackers Exclusive!. No longer does caulk / silicone need to end up all over you or over your mum’s new carpet. This technique can be used for things like caulking bathroom tub or shower caulking etc.What you will need is a tube of caulk / silicone, a caulking gun or silicone gun (which are the same thing but some people have their own preference as to what they call it), an ice-cream or popsicle stick, pieces of paper cut into squares about 10 centimetres (four inches) x 10 centimetres (four inches), a plastic water bottle sprayer and some dish washing detergent.
To apply the caulk follow these steps;
Open the caulk tube by cutting the tip at a 45 degree angle and puncturing the inner seal with a long nail or wire. Many newer caulk guns have built in tip snippers and puncture wires.
Apply the caulk at a 45 degree angle between horizontal and perpendicular.
Make sure to squeeze hard enough to get the caulk fully into the joint.
Work at a speed that is slow and consistent. The smoother you make the joint to start with, the easier the job will be.
In deciding which caulk to use for a particular job here’s a quick run down. Caulking comes in three varieties.
Latex (Acrylic, which can be cleaned up in water).
Acrylic latex caulk is the general purpose workhorse. It’s inexpensive, fast drying and can be painted. Another nice feature is that since it’s latex based, you have water clean up. Don’t ask it to fill larger cracks though. It’s best used for caulking around wood trim and thin joints in dry areas.
This is the premium caulk for jobs exposed to water.
Silicone has outstanding adhesion and flexure characteristics coupled with long life.
It also is mildew resistant, watertight, won’t yellow or discolor.
The caulk of choice for showers, tubs and other areas exposed to water.
Typically cannot be painted but some companies have come out with paintable silicone.
Unlike acrylic caulks, silicone is not water clean up, so you will use rubbing alcohol or turpentine during the application to clean up.
This type of caulk is primarily for outdoor use. It’s a great sealant for storm windows and doors, downspout and gutter seams.
This is one of Uncle Knackers little gems.
All Videos produced by shaneconlan1’s YouTube Channel are provided for informational purposes only.
All the content provided is for general guidance only. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, shaneconlan1 cannot, and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, shaneconlan1 (Shane Conlan) will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional.
These kitchen cabinet refacing instructions from Cabinet Doors Depot show you how you can reface your existing cabinets yourself and save thousands of dollars. Here’s how to do it.
1) Remove your old cabinet doors so you can replace them with new custom, RTF or natural wood cabinet doors that you design yourself online in our cabinet door design wizard.
2) Use our pre-cut to your dimensions end panels that match your new cabinet doors to finish the ends of your old cabinets.
3) Reface your old kitchen cabinet stiles and rails with our easy to apply, permanent, self-adhesive wood or RTF veneer.
4) Add any matching, cabinet refacing moldings to the walls and ceiling around your kitchen cabinets.
5) Hang your brand new cabinet doors using new hinges and your done!
Tools you will need to reface your old kitchen cabinets:
• tape measure• 180 and 220 grit sandpaper or sanding block • razor knife • scissors for RTF veneer or tin snips for wood veneer • tack cloth • hammer • self-adhesive applicator or windshield scraper • 4″ straight-edge or putty knife • adhesive spray or varnish • carpenter’s glue • drill • touch-up kit (optional) • screwdrivers: flathead and Phillips • miter box & saw for moldings• finish nails for molding